Nerium

The genus Oleander (Nerium) of the Apocynaceae family unites three evergreen shrubby plants, two of them of Asian origin. These are sweet oleander (Nerium odorum) 2-4 m high with lanceolate leathery leaves and pink flowers formed throughout the summer with a weak aroma and Indian oleander (n. indicum), whose flowers are colored in slightly pinkish tones. The third, most famous and interesting species is common oleander (n. oleander) of Mediterranean origin. The latter shrub is more lush than the other two and can grow up to 6 m in height. In the botanical species, the opposite leathery lanceolate leaves are connected in whorls of 3, and the flowers collected in brushes are white. But some of the more than 400 varieties have variegated leaves, and the flowers are either simple, semi-double or double, fragrant and odorless, colored in colors from white to cream, from pink to red, from carmine to purple and yellow, in salmon, apricot, copper-red and orange shades. All parts of the plant are highly toxic - they often cause skin irritation, and ingestion in large quantities can lead to death. Therefore it is important to keep this very beautiful plant away from children and animals.

The genus Oleander (Nerium) of the Apocynaceae family unites three evergreen shrubby plants, two of them of Asian origin. These are sweet oleander (Nerium odorum) 2-4 m high with lanceolate leathery leaves and pink flowers formed throughout the summer with a weak aroma and Indian oleander (n. indicum), whose flowers are colored in slightly pinkish tones. The third, most famous and interesting species is common oleander (n. oleander) of Mediterranean origin. The latter shrub is more lush than the other two and can grow up to 6 m in height.

In the botanical species, the opposite leathery lanceolate leaves are connected in whorls of 3, and the flowers collected in brushes are white. But some of the more than 400 varieties have variegated leaves, and the flowers are either simple, semi-double or double, fragrant and odorless, colored in colors from white to cream, from pink to red, from carmine to purple and yellow, in salmon, apricot, copper-red and orange shades. All parts of the plant are highly toxic - they often cause skin irritation, and ingestion in large quantities can lead to death. Therefore it is important to keep this very beautiful plant away from children and animals.

Cultivation

In areas with mild climates, oleander can be grown outdoors. It is planted in the open ground in April. In colder climates, plants are placed in cool rooms. Usually, potted oleanders are placed outdoors on the terrace or balcony from April to October. In winter, plants should be placed in a cool but well-lit room.

In areas with mild climates, oleander can be grown outdoors. It is planted in the open ground in April. In colder climates, plants are placed in cool rooms.

Usually, potted oleanders are placed outdoors on the terrace or balcony from April to October. In winter, plants should be placed in a cool but well-lit room.

Location

Oleanders need a sunny place even in winter. In a poorly lit room, the color of the leaves becomes faded, and the plant itself loses its luxurious appearance. Tolerates even direct sun well.

Temperature

Sweet oleander and Indian oleander are more sensitive to low temperatures. Common oleander is able to tolerate a short-term decrease in temperature from -5 to -10 °C. However, in general, the winter temperature should not be lower than 5 °C. When the temperature rises to 10-13 °C, shoots begin to appear, but the optimal temperature for growth is 15-25 °C. All oleanders tolerate higher temperatures well.

Watering

The intensity and frequency of watering depends on the temperature: the higher it is, the more often the plant should be watered, in summer-once every 2-3 days. Once a week, add 10 g of complex fertilizer to a bucket of water for irrigation. During the winter dormancy period, watering is reduced (on average 1-2 times a month), depending on the ambient temperature.

Transplant

Oleander is transplanted to a new container in March-April, before it is taken out into the open air; good light organic humus is used. Usually, the new pot should be 2 sizes larger than the previous one. But it is better to remove certain (large) plants from the pot, remove some of the old humus and replace it with fresh, plant the plant back. If the size does not allow you to remove the specimen from the pot, you can simply remove some of the humus and add fresh.

Care

Oleanders do not require special care. In order to stimulate the growth of shoots and give a beautiful compact shape, the bush is subjected to strong pruning in late summer, before bringing the specimen to a protected place. Flower-bearing shoots are shortened to 20-30 cm, and lateral ones - to 10-15 cm from the place of their branching, but this is not done every year.

Reproduction

Propagation can be carried out by sowing seeds in April, at a temperature of 18-20 °C in boxes filled with light peat humus. Seeds are covered, watered; the box is covered with glass, and newspapers are placed on top. The newspaper is removed as soon as the seeds come up, and the glass is removed after a few days. When young plants have 1-2 leaves, they are transplanted into 6-8-cm cups or cells filled with peat humus. Then the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots corresponding to the size of the plants. It is worth noting, however, that when propagated by seeds, the properties inherent in varieties and varieties are lost. Therefore, oleander is usually propagated in June-July by semi-woody cuttings 8-10 cm long. For rooting, use a mixture consisting of peat (2/3) and sand (1/3); pure peat or pure sand. Cuttings can take root even in water at room temperature. When the cuttings have roots, they are transplanted into 8-10-cm pots filled with the same mixture that was used for sowing seeds, and further transplanting into new vessels is carried out as the plants grow. The optimal temperature for rooting is 20 °C. In winter, young plants are kept at a slightly higher temperature than adults (about 8 °C).

Propagation can be carried out by sowing seeds in April, at a temperature of 18-20 °C in boxes filled with light peat humus. Seeds are covered, watered; the box is covered with glass, and newspapers are placed on top. The newspaper is removed as soon as the seeds come up, and the glass is removed after a few days. When young plants have 1-2 leaves, they are transplanted into 6-8-cm cups or cells filled with peat humus. Then the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots corresponding to the size of the plants.

It is worth noting, however, that when propagated by seeds, the properties inherent in varieties and varieties are lost. Therefore, oleander is usually propagated in June-July by semi-woody cuttings 8-10 cm long. For rooting, use a mixture consisting of peat (2/3) and sand (1/3); pure peat or pure sand. Cuttings can take root even in water at room temperature. When the cuttings have roots, they are transplanted into 8-10-cm pots filled with the same mixture that was used for sowing seeds, and further transplanting into new vessels is carried out as the plants grow. The optimal temperature for rooting is 20 °C. In winter, young plants are kept at a slightly higher temperature than adults (about 8 °C).

Diseases

The most common pests of oleander are worms, which in Italy are called "half a peppercorn"; they form characteristic dark shields and suck the juice from the plants. With a small infestation of only a few plants, insects are mechanically removed with a brush. If there is a significant lesion, use anticoccidal drugs in the dosage indicated in the instructions on the factory packaging. By destroying the worms, they also get rid of the rabble. Among other pests, spider mites and aphids are common, which are disposed of with appropriate preparations. Leaf spotting may be associated with a lesion fungi that develop at high humidity. In this case, the plant should be rearranged and treated with a copper-containing fungicide. Oleander is susceptible to bacterial infections that cause the formation of galls and blackish-gray swellings on the branches. In this case, you should strongly prune the diseased branches and treat the plant with a copper-containing preparation. If after this, new shoots again show signs of the disease, the plant should be discarded. Never propagate plants affected by bacteriosis.

Acquisition

When choosing an oleander seedling, check that the plant is well formed, there are no signs of damage by worms or blackheads, and it is especially important that there are no galls and inflows-symptoms of bacteriosis. It is better to buy these plants in the spring and summer period in such a way that before the onset of winter they have time to adapt to a new place.